Day Three: The
Louvre
And now, finally
the big one, the visit I wanted, no needed to see above all.
The Louvre.
According to our
guide, the museum is so large that in order to see ever painting for
ten seconds (only the paintings on displays, not including the
displays, artifacts, or sculptures by the way.) it would take you
four straight days. I had three hours. I needed a plan.
A game plan, right!
Bottom floor first, zoom to see Michelangelo's Captive Slave and to
see Eros and Psyche. I had a map, I was well armed, and I knew what
I was doing. I stepped inside and....okay, how do I get in again?
Ah.
It was a bit
confusing on how to even enter the museum. You see, there are
multiple entrances. I went in the Richelieu one and became,
promptly, lost. Ah crab apples. Yep. Once I finally figured out
how to get inside the place, I began the quest of the century. Take
in as much as possible while hitting the major highlights. I could
do this!
And I became lost
again, somewhere around the Grecian sculptures. Whoops. Did I
mention my lack of a sense of direction entirely? Because it was not
paying off here.
However, I am not a
man, and I can ask for directions! Which I promptly did. I managed
to see it all, starting with the important Ramses II sculpture in the
Ancient Egyptian permanent collection.
If you don't know,
Ancient Egypt holds a special place in my heart. By this I mean I
went on an ancient Egypt bender in middle school and so know enough
about it that I do love it so. So getting to see the artwork and the
hieroglyphics from that time period was pretty much a dream come
true. I was all kinds of in awe over pretty much everything in it.
The ancient Egyptians apparently had this thing with the colors Red
and blue. by blue I meant neon blue by the way.
I managed to
stumble into the Hallo of Apollo which houses the French crown
jewels. The are just oh so tacky. Well, three crowns, a sword, and
several broaches are here and they are just not as tasteful as the
british crown jewels currently are.
More beautiful and
interesting are the portraits that line the hall. These aren't
painting up there by the way. In this relatively dim all the
portraits that line every the place are made of elaborate tapestries.
From the ground you can just see the weave. It's all so absolutely
beautiful. It's all men of course, all around the sameish time
period and all very serious and solemn. Still.
From here I got
very thoroughly lost again, until I managed to figure out where I
was. I now had a new orientation. The Winged Victory of Samothrace,
a headless armless statute of a woman with wings on the prow of a
boat. He hand, by the way, it kept in a display case nearby. Much
like my father's hand, only one finger remains on it. It's even the
same finger, I think. Hard to tell with a complete lack of reference
points on the very old hand.
I was looking for
the Code of Hammurabi. This historic column contains the first know
legal system including the penalties, and is absolutely famous. It
didn't have nearly enough gawkers at it, and I nearly passed it up.
That's how you find famous things in the Louvre by the way. You look
for the crowd.
I did manage to
find it though, and took several pictures. From there, I found my
way back to the Winged Victory (a centalish location by the way) and
went on to see the great, the magnificent, the not so very large and
oh so very super crowded Mona Lisa. Using my mighty powers of
shortness, I managed to get in deep the crowd, so I only had one
layer of people between me and my quarry.
I, however, had a
rotating view screen on my camcorder, and all I had to do was hold it
up high and suddenly, I could see once more! Let there be sight!
It's always amazing to see famous paintings up close. However, on my
winding route to try and find Michelangelo's Captive Slave (which,
despite being first, proved hardest to find) I found a painting on
loan from London.
Because it was a
temporary exhibit, we weren't able to take pictures, however I do
believe I shall remember L'execution de Lady Jane Grey for a very
long time. The lighting there highlighted the pure white of Lady
Grey perfectly, her attendant faint nearby as, blindfolded, the Lady
accepted her grim fate.
This is a beautiful
painting, and I admit I stopped to admire it as I could. It left me
near breathless. Ah, if only I had been allowed to take a picture of
this beauty. Still, after pausing to swoon over the painting (I
completely forgot to get the artist's name, so enamored was I of the
painting itself) I had to regretfully move on. There is more to the
Louvre than just one painting after all.
I did find the
Venus de Milo, which, if you don't know, if the armless statue of a
chick that finds its way into everything from cartoons to pop
culture. There was also this giant statue of Ares with one arm lifts
up, and the other palm side up, outstretched as if in offering.
Considering this if the Greek god of war, I advise you not to take
the hand.
Then I found myself
suddenly in the Ancient Egyptian exhibit, which made me all too
happy. They had a Sphinx, and of course hieroglyphics were
everywhere, and of course there was the Ramses II statue of which I
had to take a picture. I can't forget the stone of hieroglyphics
half drawn, half chiseled that I imagine must have been a work in
progress forever frozen in such a state, and a burial mask. There
was a sheet of papyrus, and musical instruments (some of which looked
familiar), a makeup case, with containers, all long empty. So many
artifacts.
I can't help but
wonder, thousands of years from now, will there be museums dedicated
to the artifacts of our civilization (which, we must be honest, will
no last forever). Will there be old print books on display,
crumbling aged wedding dressed, photographs and paintings of modern
art? Will shirts from Walmart be on display, and there be an entire
exhibit dedicated to, of all things, the Simpsons in their multimedia
prevalence? Will our curtains hang in a future museum, or piece of
out buildings, models of famous buildings, be on display?
I don't know.
We're hardly an interesting exhibit, at this first decade of the
millennium. Perhaps our second decade will be more interesting. Then
again, they could always place things from the sixties next to things
from the nineties as an example of our culture. Imagine a hippie VW
bus placed next to the Android statue.
Ah, but back to the
now, and not to the future. The Louvre.
Apparently, the
ancient Egyptians had some sort of zodiac as well, and there was this
zodiac wheel, no joke, on the ceiling. It was hard to manage a
picture of this at all!
I will say, that
from their exhibit of Ancient Egyptian artifacts, blues, green, and
reds were definitely preferred colors. Teals were there a lot as
well, on statues, bowls and the like.
As I continued on,
I must remind myself to look up. Why? Well, if you look up, you can
see a painting of France and Egypt's relationship, which is, of
course, a good one historically. I say this because there was a very
clear painting on the ceiling of the Louvre (at one time a palace,
which must be remembered) of an Egyptian ruler, the spirit of France,
and several angels. Only the ruler was a female, and not very
Cleopatra-ish, so I am assuming that this is the spirit of Egypt.
It was rather on
the ceiling, so hardly had a plaque explaining which is what.
Suddenly, after exiting this very Egyptian themed room, I find myself
in a room of Grecian artifacts, such as jewelry and the like, then
back to a central location, where, no joke, I got to see a
restoration area for many of the artifacts, though it was not
currently in use. I still took pictures.
Now I didn't take
my Mona Lisa pictures very well the first time through. It was hard
to press in. But when I found myself back in that area, I decided to
take my time through this long hall of paintings, examining many of
them with the occasional statue to look at. This time through, I
managed to get decent pictures, and it was much nicer. I was, at
this point, more interested in other painting though, such as a giant
one that depicted the fall of Lucifer, and several of the Madonna and
child,and the St. Stephen.
There was also this
set of portraits of two women who looked almost exactly alike. They
were apparently mother and daughter, as a nearby tour guide
explained, and the differences were clear in age by the amount of
skin showing. That is to say, Mother had the skin of her arms
showing while Daughter wore long gloves to hide this.
I suppose I should
mention something I found odd. In the Palace of Versailles there
were large paintings adorning the walls. In the Louvre, there were,
no joke, the exact same paintings, on a slightly different scale,
with every detail the same. It wasn't even a mockery. Both were
about the coronation of Napoleon, apparently, but both involved him
crowning a woman, who I will assume if his wife. This isn't the only
duplicate.
Puzzling.
However, I ust move
on from this conundrum to another curiosity. A painting of Selene
and Endymion. This was, by the way, the Roman moon goddess and a
shepherd boy so handsome she believed herself in love with him. He
was put into an eternal sleep however, and it's a rather sad tale in
all.
As I continued my
whirlwind self guided (lost again) tour I was forced to pause in
utter confusion at the sight of a man's head on a platter. Like one
you'd display a cake on, and no that isn't a joke. I suppose there's
a reason for the idiom "head on a platter" after all.
Paintings. Who knew.
I don't think I
want to know the story for that one.
Of course, there
was also a painting of David and Goliath which took me a moment to
recognize. Then, finally, I found my way to what was supposed to be
the first stop, Michelangelo's Captive slave!
Okay, dude. You
don't look like a captive slave to me, unless it's a captive slave to
love. Seriously Michelangelo. That expression, and it looks like
he's removing his shirt. There had to be context I do not know here.
There just has to be.
Well, I was in the
Greek sculptures area again (there's like three of those by the way.
At least) admiring the artwork of talented men and probably talented
women, when I say something that I had to get a close up of. But I
couldn't get close enough, due to a tour group surrounding it, so
meanders around, taking pictures until I could.
There's one of a
guy who's slayed a dragon. Now these are Greek sculptures, so it
isn't Saint George. Any ideas? There's also one of a veiled woman,
and one of a woman facing away on her side. I should like to note,
no matter where you take this woman's picture, she's not looking at
you. That took talent.
Then, three or four
statues later, I was able to get close enough to actually see the
expressions. This was the famous Eros and Psyche statue, and the
expression on both was positively enamored. It was also one I had
seen before, and for a moment, just a moment, I saw not Eros and
Psyche, but my sister and brother in law. That was how they looked
at each other when no one was looking.
I was astounded.
Huh. So that's what love looks like. It's always good to know. If
anyone asks me, I can now tell them. But enough sap (again).
Onto more statues!
These are made of multiple types of marble, and apparently I missed a
famous one in this exhibit, somewhere, but that's fine by me. I saw
a wonderful statue out of myth, and the back of a giant statue in
storage, standing upright in a box. Apparently, there was no other
way to store it. As the thing was at least two stories high, I can
understand.
From there, I
managed into the Hall of Apollo again, thoroughly lost, and trying to
find my way out to look at the glass pyramids of the Louvre. Perhaps
someone with my lack of sense of direction shouldn't explore museums
the size three stacked football fields unaccompanied. Then, lo and
behold, an exit! I looked around outside, snapped a few shots,
nibbled my lunch, before heading back inside and to the bus. My trip
to the Louvre was over. But oh, it was so very worth it, every
single step and second.
One Final Byte: I
will go to Paris again for this.
When you do go again, take me with you! I am feeling a wee bit envious!
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